The TravelPasha guide to Peru

Peru is a land of contrasts, where breathtaking landscapes teem with ancient history, and culinary traditions are reimagined for the modern palate. This South American paradise is famed for its archaeological treasures, vibrant cities, and unparalleled gastronomic experiences, culminating in a unique journey that unites the past and the present. The Inca Trail, a renowned trek leading to the ancient citadel of Machu Picchu, not only provides a glimpse into the sophisticated engineering of the Incas but also ends in Lima, home to several Michelin-starred restaurants that redefine Peruvian cuisine.

As you traverse Peru, you will encounter the Andean mountains, lush Amazonian rainforest, and coastal deserts, each region boasting its own culture and culinary delights. This guide will provide you with essential insights into the best times to visit, how to navigate the country, and where to indulge in luxury amidst the breathtaking scenery.

Why now

Peru has emerged as a culinary powerhouse in recent years, with chefs like Virgilio Martínez of Central and Gastón Acurio of Astrid y Gastón leading the charge in globally acclaimed gastronomy. The country has also seen investment in sustainable tourism, making now an ideal time to explore its natural wonders and cultural heritage. With increasing air connectivity and a focus on responsible travel, visitors can witness the magic of Peru while supporting local communities and conservation efforts. The vibrant festivals celebrating ancient traditions alongside contemporary art and design make this a thrilling time to experience everything from the Amazon rainforest to the enigmatic ruins of the Incas.

When to go

Peru experiences diverse climatic conditions, which makes timing crucial for a well-planned trip. The dry season, from May to September, is the most favourable for trekking in the Andes and visiting Machu Picchu, with clear skies and pleasant temperatures. Conversely, the rainy season, from December to March, can make the Inca Trail muddy and treacherous, though this is the best time for Amazon exploration, as the flora and fauna come alive. Lima enjoys a mild climate year-round, with minimal rainfall, making it an excellent destination at any time. Avoid the peak tourist months of June and July if you prefer a quieter experience, as the trails and sites can become crowded.

How to get there & get around

International travellers will typically arrive in Lima's Jorge Chávez International Airport (LIM), which offers connections to major cities in the region. From Lima, domestic airlines such as LATAM and Sky Airline operate flights to Cusco (CUZ), Arequipa (AQP), and Puerto Maldonado (PEM) for Amazon excursions. For those wishing to explore at a leisurely pace, consider the scenic train journey from Cusco to Aguas Calientes, the gateway to Machu Picchu. Distances within Peru can be substantial; for instance, the drive from Cusco to the Sacred Valley takes about an hour. Renting a car is an option for adventurous travellers, but be wary of the mountain roads and local driving customs.

The regions worth your time

Lima Lima, the nation's capital, is a cosmopolitan hub that juxtaposes colonial architecture with modern design. The city is a gastronomic mecca, attracting food enthusiasts from around the globe. With restaurants like Central and Maido leading the way, Lima's culinary scene is not to be missed.

Cusco Once the heart of the Inca Empire, Cusco is a UNESCO World Heritage site steeped in history and charm. Visitors are drawn to the city's vibrant markets, charming streets, and the stunning Qorikancha temple. It serves as the primary base for exploring the Sacred Valley and Machu Picchu.

Sacred Valley The Sacred Valley, cradled between Cusco and Machu Picchu, is a verdant landscape dotted with ancient ruins and traditional villages. Ideal for adventure seekers, the valley offers opportunities for hiking, biking, and immersing oneself in local culture through community-led experiences.

Machu Picchu No visit to Peru would be complete without the awe-inspiring Machu Picchu. This ancient citadel, perched high in the Andes, is a testament to Inca ingenuity and serves as a stunning backdrop for exploration and reflection, best accessed via the Inca Trail or the scenic train from Cusco.

Arequipa Known as the 'White City' due to its unique sillar stone architecture, Arequipa is surrounded by stunning volcanic landscapes. Here, you can delve into the region's rich history, sample excellent cuisine, and explore the stunning Colca Canyon.

Amazon The Peruvian Amazon offers an entirely different experience, with dense jungles and rivers teeming with wildlife. Base yourself in Puerto Maldonado for guided tours into the rainforest, where you can witness the incredible biodiversity and learn about indigenous cultures.

Where to stay

Hotel B, Lima This boutique hotel in the Barranco district seamlessly blends contemporary design with historical elegance. Its location offers easy access to the best of Lima's art scene and dining.

Belmond Hotel Monasterio, Cusco Set within a former monastery, this luxury hotel embodies colonial charm while providing modern comforts. Its stunning architecture and central location make it ideal for exploring Cusco.

Inkaterra Machu Picchu Pueblo Hotel Nestled in the cloud forest, this eco-friendly hotel merges nature with luxury, offering a serene escape just steps from the historic site of Machu Picchu.

Sol y Luna, Sacred Valley This luxurious hotel is set amongst beautiful gardens and offers spacious casitas inspired by traditional Peruvian design, making it a perfect base for exploring the Sacred Valley.

Libertador Arequipa With breathtaking views of the Misti Volcano, this luxury hotel features traditional architecture and is located just a short distance from the city centre, providing an ideal mix of comfort and culture.

Inkaterra Reserva Amazonica Set deep in the jungle, this eco-lodge offers an immersive Amazon experience with luxurious bungalows and guided excursions to explore the rich biodiversity of the rainforest.

What to eat

Peru's culinary scene is as diverse as its geography, with indigenous ingredients like potatoes, quinoa, and a variety of peppers taking centre stage. Lima's gastronomic offerings are particularly noteworthy, with several restaurants earning international acclaim. At Central, chef Virgilio Martínez explores Peru's biodiversity through a seasonal tasting menu, while Maido, led by Mitsuharu Tsumura, creatively marries Peruvian and Japanese flavours. In Cusco, indulge in traditional dishes at Chicha, where chef Gastón Acurio serves up local fare in a vibrant setting. Do not miss sampling ceviche at Pescados Capitales or the hearty cuy (guinea pig) at Uchu Peruvian Steakhouse. In Arequipa, savor the spicy rocoto relleno at La Nueva Palomino, a dish that showcases the region's culinary heritage.

Culture, etiquette & language

Peruvians are known for their warmth and hospitality. Greetings are typically informal; a handshake, accompanied by a smile, is customary. Tipping is generally expected in restaurants and for guides, typically around 10%. Dress codes are relaxed but aim for smart-casual attire when dining out or visiting cultural sites. It's advisable to ask for permission before photographing individuals, especially in rural areas. Basic Spanish phrases, such as 'Hola' (Hello), 'Gracias' (Thank you), and 'Por favor' (Please), can go a long way in building rapport with locals.

What it costs

Luxury accommodations in Peru generally range from $300 to $800 per night, depending on the property and season. Premium options typically cost between $150 and $300, while mid-range hotels can be found for $50 to $150. Dining experiences at Michelin-starred restaurants can range from $60 to $200 per person, while casual dining averages around $15. When entering Peru, ensure you have a valid passport; many nationalities can stay for up to 183 days without a visa, although it’s wise to check specific entry requirements based on your nationality.

A sample two-week itinerary

1. Arrive in Lima; explore Barranco and dine at Central. 2. Fly to Cusco; acclimatise and enjoy a walking tour of the city. 3. Visit the Sacred Valley, exploring Ollantaytambo and Pisac. 4. Trek the Inca Trail or take the train to Machu Picchu; explore the ancient citadel. 5. Return to Cusco; dine at Chicha and visit Qorikancha. 6. Fly to Arequipa; tour the city and visit Santa Catalina Monastery. 7. Take a day trip to Colca Canyon to see condors. 8. Return to Arequipa for local cuisine at La Nueva Palomino. 9. Fly to Puerto Maldonado; embark on an Amazon lodge experience. 10. Participate in guided jungle excursions and wildlife spotting. 11. Return to Lima; relax and explore the culinary scene further. 12. Enjoy a final fine dining experience at Maido before departure.

Responsible travel

To ensure your visit to Peru is impactful rather than detrimental, consider staying in eco-friendly accommodations that prioritise sustainability. Engage with local communities through tours that directly benefit them, and always respect cultural practices and customs. When trekking in the Andes or exploring the Amazon, adhere to Leave No Trace principles to preserve the stunning environment for future generations. Supporting local artisans by purchasing handmade crafts can contribute significantly to their livelihoods and help maintain traditional crafts.