The TravelPasha guide to South Korea

South Korea, a land where the ancestral meets the avant-garde, offers an impressive tapestry woven with age-old traditions, striking modernity, and a culinary landscape that is both diverse and delightful. Whether wandering through pagodas and temples, indulging in the latest K-food trend, or exploring the neon-lit streets of Seoul, this dynamic country caters to every taste. From the spiritual calm of Jeju to the historical depths of Gyeongju, South Korea invites discerning travellers to uncover its myriad layers and appreciate the delicate balance between past and present.

As the country continues to gain prominence on the global stage, there has never been a better time to visit. With the rise of K-culture—spanning music, fashion, film, and gastronomy—sophisticated travellers are flocking to experience the enthusiasm and creativity that fuels this modern renaissance. Yet, even amidst the bustle, tranquillity awaits in the form of stunning temples and serene nature reserves, providing the perfect counterpoint to the country's vibrant urban life.

Why now

A surge in international interest, propelled by K-pop and Korean cinema, has made South Korea a hotspot for seasoned travellers. The 2023 revival of the travel industry, coupled with the ongoing interest in Korean cuisine and culture, positions South Korea as an enticing destination. The country's unique blend of contemporary living alongside deeply rooted traditions captivates visitors, making it a prime time to delve into its offerings.

Events such as the Seoul Lantern Festival in November and the Jeju Cherry Blossom Festival in April enhance the allure of visiting during these seasons. Moreover, the growing number of direct flights and enhanced travel infrastructure makes it easier than ever to navigate the country’s diverse regions, from the metropolitan vibrancy of Seoul to the serene landscapes of Jeju.

When to go

The ideal time to visit South Korea is during its spring (April to June) and autumn (September to November) seasons. During spring, the cherry blossoms bloom, and temperatures are pleasantly mild, making it perfect for outdoor explorations. Autumn offers a spectacular display of foliage, particularly in the mountainous regions. Summer (July to August) can be hot and humid, with the monsoon season bringing heavy rainfall, while winter (December to February) offers a crisp chill, perfect for those looking to experience the country’s winter sports or festive atmospheres.

For those keen on avoiding crowds, it’s advisable to steer clear of major holidays such as Chuseok (Korean Thanksgiving) and Seollal (Lunar New Year) when locals travel extensively. Visiting during shoulder seasons can also provide a quieter experience at popular attractions.

How to get there & get around

In South Korea, Incheon International Airport serves as the main gateway for international flights, situated approximately 48 km west of Seoul and consistently ranked among the world’s best airports. For regional travel, Gimhae International Airport in Busan and Jeju International Airport facilitate connections to popular destinations. South Korea’s extensive high-speed rail network, notably the KTX, allows for seamless travel between major cities—Seoul to Busan takes around two and a half hours, while Gyeongju is a mere 2.5-hour train ride from Seoul.

While public transport is efficient and comprehensive, including subways and buses, rental cars can be a great option for exploring Jeju Island or rural areas. Driving is relatively straightforward, but be aware of tolls and parking regulations, which can vary widely.

The regions worth your time

Seoul

Seoul, the capital, is an exhilarating blend of modern skyscrapers and ancient palaces. Known for its technology and fashion, this city is perfect for the cosmopolitan traveller who seeks both innovation and tradition. Must-visit sites include Gyeongbokgung Palace, Bukchon Hanok Village, and the bustling Myeongdong shopping district.

Busan

Famed for its picturesque beaches and vibrant street food scene, Busan caters to those who crave coastal charm. The city boasts attractions such as the stunning Gamcheon Culture Village and the striking Haeundae Beach, alongside a burgeoning seafood dining scene. The Busan International Film Festival adds a cultural dimension, attracting film aficionados from around the globe.

Jeju

Known for its volcanic landscapes and tranquil ambiance, Jeju Island offers a serene escape from urban life. Ideal for nature lovers, the island features Hallasan National Park and the breathtaking Seongsan Ilchulbong (Sunrise Peak). Jeju's slow pace and emphasis on wellness make it a perfect retreat for those seeking reflection and rejuvenation.

Gyeongju

Gyeongju, often referred to as 'the museum without walls', is a UNESCO World Heritage site that showcases Korea’s rich history through its ancient tombs, temples, and palaces. Ideal for history enthusiasts, Gyeongju offers insights into the Silla Dynasty and is home to cultural treasures such as the ancient temple of Bulguksa and the Seokguram Grotto.

DMZ

The Demilitarized Zone (DMZ) between North and South Korea is steeped in history and is a poignant reminder of the country’s tumultuous past. Guided tours provide insight into the geopolitical significance of the area, and visitors have the unique opportunity to stand at the border, making this a profound experience for those interested in contemporary history.

Where to stay

Design Hotel: Four Seasons Hotel Seoul

This luxurious property intertwines traditional Korean design with contemporary elegance, offering spacious rooms and excellent dining options, including the Michelin-starred Yu Yuan.

Heritage Hotel: The Shilla Seoul

A hallmark of sophistication, The Shilla Seoul presents a blend of modern luxury and traditional Korean culture, making it an opulent base for exploring the city’s highlights.

Beach Retreat: Park Hyatt Busan

Nestled by the marina, this sleek hotel features stylish accommodations with panoramic views of the sea and easy access to Busan’s best attractions, including the famous Jagalchi Fish Market.

Rural Retreat: Hidden Cliff Hotel & Nature

Surrounded by Jeju's lush landscapes, this eco-friendly resort seamlessly integrates with its natural surroundings, offering a relaxing getaway complete with wellness amenities.

Boutique Hotel: Hotel Laon

Situated in the heart of Gyeongju, this charming boutique hotel reflects the region's history while providing modern comforts and personalised service, making it an ideal base for exploring cultural sites.

What to eat

Korean cuisine is a vibrant tapestry of flavours and textures, heavily influenced by seasonal ingredients and regional specialties. Signature dishes include bibimbap, a harmonious mix of rice, vegetables, and meats, and galbi, marinated grilled ribs that showcase the country's love for barbecued fare.

Visitors are encouraged to explore the culinary scene, with notable dining establishments such as: - Jungsik (Seoul): A two-Michelin-starred restaurant that presents contemporary Korean fine dining, helmed by chef Jung Sik-yoo. - Gwangjang Market (Seoul): A bustling market well-known for its banchan (side dishes) and savoury street foods like bindaetteok (mung bean pancakes) and bibimbap. - Geumsu Daeji (Busan): Celebrated for its spicy grilled pork, this local favourite embodies Busan's flavourful culinary scene. - Sasa (Jeju): A farm-to-table restaurant that focuses on local produce and fresh seafood, providing diners with an authentic taste of the island. - Hwanggeum Jjimdak (Gyeongju): Known for its jjimdak (braised chicken), this eatery serves a beloved local dish that showcases the region's culinary heritage.

Culture, etiquette & language

Korean culture is steeped in respect and tradition. Greetings typically involve a bow, and using formal language is essential, especially when addressing elders. Tipping is not customary in restaurants, as service charges are often included, but rounding up is appreciated in casual settings. Dress codes tend to be smart-casual, particularly in urban areas.

In terms of language, while many South Koreans, particularly in urban areas, speak English, learning a few key phrases may enhance your experience. Consider these useful phrases: - Annyeonghaseyo (Hello) - Gamsahamnida (Thank you) - Eolma-eyo? (How much is this?)

What it costs

Luxury travellers can expect to spend between $500 to $1,000 per day, covering stays at high-end hotels, fine dining experiences, and private tours. Premium experiences typically range from $300 to $500 per day, while mid-range travellers can budget around $150 to $250 daily. Visas for many nationalities, including Americans and Europeans, are not required for stays up to 90 days, but always check for updates based on your nationality.

A sample two-week itinerary

1. Day 1: Arrive in Seoul, check into the Four Seasons Hotel, and explore Gyeongbokgung Palace. 2. Day 2: Visit Bukchon Hanok Village and shop in Myeongdong; dinner at Jungsik. 3. Day 3: Day trip to DMZ, followed by a traditional Korean BBQ dinner. 4. Day 4: Fly to Busan, check into Park Hyatt, and visit Haeundae Beach. 5. Day 5: Explore Gamcheon Culture Village and Jagalchi Fish Market; enjoy dinner at Geumsu Daeji. 6. Day 6: Return to Seoul, visit Dongdaemun Design Plaza, and dine at a local izakaya. 7. Day 7: Fly to Jeju; check into Hidden Cliff Hotel & Nature; relax on the beach. 8. Day 8: Hike Hallasan Mountain and explore the Jeju Folk Village. 9. Day 9: Visit Seongsan Ilchulbong for sunrise; savour local dishes at Sasa. 10. Day 10: Fly to Gyeongju; check into Hotel Laon and explore the ancient city. 11. Day 11: Visit Bulguksa Temple and Seokguram Grotto; dinner at Hwanggeum Jjimdak. 12. Day 12: Return to Seoul, indulge in a spa day, and prepare for departure. 13. Day 13: Last-minute shopping in Seoul; explore Insadong for traditional crafts. 14. Day 14: Depart from Incheon International Airport.

Responsible travel

To travel responsibly in South Korea, consider supporting local businesses by dining at family-run restaurants and purchasing handcrafted souvenirs. Engage with local communities through cultural workshops, such as traditional cooking or calligraphy classes. Additionally, adhere to waste separation and recycling practices, as South Korea places a strong emphasis on environmental responsibility. Respect cultural sites by behaving appropriately and following any guidelines provided by local authorities, ensuring these treasures are preserved for future generations.