The TravelPasha guide to Jordan

Jordan, a land steeped in ancient history and dramatic landscapes, offers a unique travel experience that captivates the discerning traveller. With its spectacular archaeological sites, including the famed rose-red city of Petra, and the expansive serenity of Wadi Rum’s lunar-like deserts, this Middle Eastern kingdom is a tapestry of rich culture and hospitality. Jordanian hospitality is practically a state policy; it is a country where visitors are welcomed as honoured guests, often treated to the warmth of a family meal or a glass of sweet mint tea. This guide aims to navigate through the highlights of Jordan, unearthing its cultural treasures and luxurious offerings.

The interplay between ancient stones, vast deserts, and the rich tapestry of Jordanian culture beckons exploration. Whether you seek adventure in the striking landscapes or a deep dive into the heart of its history, Jordan promises an experience that is both profound and rejuvenating. With an efficient infrastructure, the ease of travel within the country makes it accessible to engage with its stunning geography and welcoming people, ensuring a memorable journey.

Why now

Jordan stands at a remarkable crossroads of history and modernity, making it an enticing destination right now. With global travel trends leaning towards authentic experiences, Jordan presents a genuine opportunity to engage with a culture that has thrived for millennia. The recent enhancements in tourism infrastructure, alongside the re-opening of borders post-pandemic, allow for a seamless exploration of its offerings. Moreover, the country is celebrating the 100th anniversary of its founding in 2021, making it a particularly poignant time for visitors to witness the evolution of its culture and heritage. Events and festivals are being hosted throughout the year, showing off local traditions, crafts, and cuisines, thus allowing for a deeper connection to the Jordanian way of life.

When to go

The best time to visit Jordan is during the spring (March to May) and autumn (September to November) months when temperatures are moderate and pleasant, perfect for exploring the archaeological sites and natural wonders. During these months, daytime temperatures generally hover between 20-30°C (68-86°F), while evenings can be cooler, particularly in the desert regions.

Summer, from June to August, can be scorching, especially in places like the Dead Sea and Wadi Rum, with temperatures often exceeding 40°C (104°F). This is not the ideal time for extensive outdoor exploration. Conversely, winter (December to February) can be chilly, particularly in Amman and northern regions, with occasional rainfall. However, this period offers a unique perspective, with fewer tourists and the chance to experience local life more authentically. It is worth noting that the Dead Sea, famed for its healing properties and buoyant waters, is a year-round attraction, but visiting in cooler months can enhance comfort.

How to get there & get around

Queen Alia International Airport (AMM), located about 30km south of Amman, serves as Jordan’s primary international gateway. It connects to numerous global destinations with airlines such as Royal Jordanian, British Airways, and Lufthansa offering regular flights. Once in Jordan, the country enjoys a well-structured network of roads and public transport, making it easy to explore. Taxis and ride-hailing services like Careem are widely available in urban areas, while rented cars provide flexibility for venturing into more remote areas.

For those wishing to travel between cities, the Jordan Express Tourist Bus Company operates a comfortable service connecting Amman, Petra, and Aqaba. Distances can vary, with Amman to Petra approximately 3 hours by road, while Aqaba is about 4 hours from the capital. Driving is relatively straightforward; however, be aware of local driving norms, including a propensity for aggressive driving and a lack of road signage in rural areas.

The regions worth your time

Amman

Amman, the capital and largest city, serves as a vibrant cultural hub and gateway to Jordan’s historical treasures. The city blends ancient ruins, including the Roman Theatre and Citadel, with modern architecture and eclectic neighbourhoods like Jabal Al Weibdeh, known for its galleries and cafés. Ideal for history buffs and urban explorers alike, Amman’s growing dining scene features both contemporary and traditional options, making it a fantastic starting point for your journey.

Petra

Petra, often termed the ‘Rose City’, is an archaeological marvel and one of the Seven Wonders of the World. This extraordinary site, carved into the pink sandstone cliffs, showcases the ingenuity of the Nabataeans who thrived here over 2,000 years ago. Ideal for history and adventure enthusiasts, hiking through the Siq to the Treasury is a breathtaking experience, while a multi-day exploration can include lesser-known trails leading to spectacular views like the Monastery and the High Place of Sacrifice.

Wadi Rum

The dramatic landscape of Wadi Rum, with its towering sandstone mountains and vast desert expanse, is a playground for adventurers. Perfect for those enamoured by outdoor activities, options abound from traditional Bedouin camps, stargazing, to jeep tours and hot-air balloon rides. The sense of tranquillity here, combined with the backdrop of stunning rock formations, creates an ethereal feel that is unforgettable.

Dead Sea

Renowned for its unique saline waters and therapeutic mud, the Dead Sea is a place of relaxation and rejuvenation. Ideal for wellness seekers and leisure travellers, the area boasts luxurious resorts that provide spa treatments harnessing the mineral-rich resources of the sea. Floating in these famously buoyant waters is a must, as is indulging in the natural beauty surrounding the region.

Aqaba

Aqaba, Jordan’s only coastal city, is situated on the Red Sea and offers a contrasting experience to the arid desert landscapes. Perfect for those interested in leisure and aquatic activities, Aqaba features spectacular coral reefs, making it a prime destination for diving and snorkelling. The city also provides a lively waterfront with dining and shopping options, ideal for those wishing to relax by the sea after exploring the inland wonders.

Where to stay

Amman The King Abdullah II Palace – This luxury hotel features opulent rooms, exquisite dining, and unparalleled service, providing a refined stay in the heart of the city.

The House Boutique Suites – A stylish property combining modern design with homely comforts, set within a vibrant neighbourhood, perfect for urban exploration.

Petra Mövenpick Resort Petra – Nestled just minutes from the entrance to Petra, this hotel combines luxury with traditional Jordanian hospitality, with rooms featuring stunning views of the surrounding mountains.

Petra Marriott Hotel – Offering modern amenities and breathtaking views of the Petra mountains, this property provides a comfortable base for exploring the ancient city.

Wadi Rum Wadi Rum Night Luxury Camp – Experience Bedouin hospitality in luxury tents equipped with private bathrooms and stunning desert views; ideal for stargazers and adventurers.

The Sun City Camp – Offers unique, tented accommodations with a strong focus on cultural immersion and adventure activities in the surrounding desert.

Dead Sea Kempinski Hotel Ishtar Dead Sea – This opulent resort features luxurious spa facilities and access to the Dead Sea, providing guests with the ultimate relaxation experience.

Hilton Dead Sea Resort & Spa – Set along the shores of the Dead Sea, it boasts contemporary luxury and exceptional wellness offerings.

Aqaba InterContinental Aqaba Resort – Offers beachfront luxury with an array of water sports and dining options, making it a prime choice for leisure seekers.

Kempinski Hotel Aqaba Red Sea – A beautifully designed property with stunning views, providing exceptional amenities for both relaxation and adventure.

What to eat

Jordanian cuisine is a tapestry of flavours and textures, characterised by its use of fresh herbs, spices, and locally-sourced ingredients. Signature dishes include mansaf, a fragrant lamb dish served with rice and yogurt sauce, and falafel, a beloved street food. The best time to savour seasonal fruits and vegetables is during the spring and autumn months.

Sufra in Amman is renowned for its traditional dishes, offering a taste of authentic Jordanian cuisine in a beautifully designed setting. Al Qantarah in Petra is famed for its delectable grilled meats and warm hospitality, while The Cave Bar near Petra serves unique dining experiences inside the oldest bar in the world, set in a 2,000-year-old rock. In Aqaba, Ali Baba Restaurant captures the essence of coastal cuisine with an enticing array of fresh seafood dishes, perfectly complemented by local herbs and spices. For a modern twist on traditional flavours, try Wild Jordan Center in Amman, which highlights the rich culinary heritage of Jordan with a focus on sustainability and local ingredients.

Culture, etiquette & language

Jordan is a predominantly Muslim country, and understanding local customs is essential for respectful engagement. Greetings often begin with “As-salamu alaykum” (peace be upon you), followed by a handshake. Dress modestly, particularly when visiting religious sites, with women encouraged to cover their shoulders and knees. Tipping is customary, generally around 10-15% in restaurants and offered for services such as guided tours.

Local etiquette promotes hospitality, and it is polite to accept offers of tea or coffee. Learning a few basic Arabic phrases, such as “Shukran” (thank you) and “Afwan” (you’re welcome), can go a long way in building rapport with locals. Respect local customs surrounding public displays of affection, as these are generally frowned upon.

What it costs

Jordan’s luxury hotels range from approximately $200 to $600 per night, while mid-range accommodations can be found from $70 to $150. Dining expenses can vary widely; expect $20 to $50 for a meal at a mid-range restaurant and upwards of $100 for fine dining experiences. For local street food, budget around $5 to $10. Visa requirements are straightforward for many nationalities, with visas obtainable upon arrival for a fee, but it’s advisable to check specific regulations before travelling.

A sample two-week itinerary

1. Day 1: Arrive in Amman; explore the Citadel and Roman Theatre. 2. Day 2: Visit the Jordan Museum; dinner at Sufra. 3. Day 3: Drive to Petra; explore the Siq and the Treasury. 4. Day 4: Full day in Petra; hike to the Monastery. 5. Day 5: Depart for Wadi Rum; jeep tour and stargazing. 6. Day 6: Camel trek; visit Lawrence’s Spring. 7. Day 7: Transfer to the Dead Sea; relax at the beach. 8. Day 8: Spa day; try the famous mud treatments. 9. Day 9: Travel to Aqaba; spend the day at the beach. 10. Day 10: Snorkelling or diving excursion; explore local markets. 11. Day 11: Return to Amman; visit local artisans in Jabal Al Weibdeh. 12. Day 12: Day trip to Jerash; explore ancient ruins. 13. Day 13: Free day in Amman; shopping and dining experiences. 14. Day 14: Depart from Amman.

Responsible travel

When travelling in Jordan, supporting local communities is essential. Opt for locally owned businesses, restaurants, and artisans to ensure that your spending directly benefits the communities you visit. Engage with local guides who provide insights into the culture and history, fostering a deeper understanding of the region. Respect the environment by minimising plastic use and adhering to Leave No Trace principles when exploring places like Wadi Rum and Petra. Additionally, participating in cultural experiences, such as cooking classes or traditional crafts, can help preserve local traditions and empower local artisans. Ensuring your travel choices contribute positively to the local economy not only enriches your experience but also helps maintain the cultural integrity of this remarkable country.