The TravelPasha guide to Japan

Japan, often hailed as the most precisely choreographed country on earth, offers an unparalleled tapestry of experiences that blend centuries-old traditions with cutting-edge modernity. From the bustling streets of Tokyo to the tranquil temples of Kyoto and the serene beaches of Okinawa, this island nation is a harmonious amalgamation of cultural richness, culinary excellence, and architectural brilliance. Each region tells a unique story, inviting discerning travellers to immerse themselves in its artistry and craftsmanship, whether in art, fashion, or cuisine. This guide aims to navigate you through Japan’s intricate landscape, showcasing its many facets, ensuring each journey is filled with depth and discovery.

As you traverse Japan, expect to be enveloped in a world where every detail is carefully curated, from the elegance of a tea ceremony to the precision of sushi preparation. Each city and region boasts its own character, making this journey a delightful feast for the senses.

Why now

Japan is experiencing a renaissance, emerging from the past few years with a renewed vigour and commitment to hospitality. With the easing of travel restrictions, the country welcomes visitors to explore its myriad attractions with open arms. The Tokyo 2020 Olympics, although held without international spectators, spurred significant investments in infrastructure and public spaces, enhancing the travel experience. The nation's ongoing fascination with technology and design continues to evolve, making it an opportune time for discerning travellers to engage with both the contemporary and the traditional.

Additionally, Japan is keen to promote sustainable tourism, ensuring that the beauty of its landscapes and cultural heritage is preserved for future generations. This commitment resonates deeply with modern travellers looking for more meaningful interactions with the places they visit.

When to go

Japan experiences four distinct seasons, each offering its own beauty and character. Spring (March to May) is particularly enchanting, marked by the iconic cherry blossoms that blanket the country in delicate pink hues. The mild weather and numerous hanami (flower viewing) parties make it an ideal time to visit.

Summer (June to August) brings a lively atmosphere, especially with festivals such as Gion Matsuri in Kyoto, but be prepared for heat and humidity; it’s also the season for lush green landscapes and coastal escapes. Autumn (September to November) rivals spring for beauty, as foliage shifts to vibrant reds and golds, with comfortable temperatures perfect for exploration.

Winter (December to February) attracts visitors to the snow-capped mountains of Hokkaido for skiing and the hot springs of onsens, as well as the beautiful illuminations across major cities. Avoid the Golden Week in late April and early May, as it sees a surge in domestic travel, making popular sites crowded.

How to get there & get around

Japan boasts excellent international connectivity, with major airports like Narita International (NRT) and Haneda Airport (HND) in Tokyo, Kansai International Airport (KIX) in Osaka, and Chitose Airport (CTS) in Hokkaido serving as key gateways. Numerous regional airlines facilitate travel between the islands, with ANA and Japan Airlines being the top choices, offering extensive domestic flight networks.

Once in Japan, the Shinkansen, or bullet train, is the best way to traverse the country with remarkable speed and comfort. The Japan Rail Pass offers unlimited travel on the rail network for a set duration, making it a cost-effective choice for travellers. For city exploration, efficient metro systems in cities like Tokyo and Osaka are complemented by well-organised bus networks, ensuring ease of movement. Car rentals are best for rural areas, but be mindful of local driving customs, including the preference for left-hand traffic.

The regions worth your time

Tokyo A vibrant metropolis, Tokyo is a juxtaposition of ultra-modern skyscrapers, historical temples, and quaint neighbourhoods. Each district, from the upscale boutiques of Ginza to the youth culture of Harajuku, beckons discovery. With a culinary scene led by Michelin-starred chefs such as Yoshihiro Murata, Tokyo is a food lover's paradise.

Kyoto As Japan’s historical heart, Kyoto is synonymous with temples, tea houses, and traditional kaiseki dining. Visitors can wander through the iconic Arashiyama Bamboo Grove or partake in a tea ceremony at the serene Kinkaku-ji. The neighbourhood of Gion offers a glimpse into the world of geisha, while the cuisine showcases seasonal ingredients in beautifully presented dishes.

Osaka Known for its dynamic street food scene, Osaka is a culinary hub distinguished by its casual dining atmosphere. Signature dishes like takoyaki (octopus balls) and okonomiyaki (savory pancakes) are best enjoyed at local eateries. The Namba district combines vibrant nightlife with shopping, providing a perfect blend of experiences.

Hokkaido Famed for its natural beauty, Hokkaido is a haven for outdoor enthusiasts with its ski resorts in winter and flower fields in summer. The region is also renowned for fresh seafood and dairy products, particularly in Sapporo. Visitors can explore the charming canals of Otaru or indulge in the hot springs of Noboribetsu.

Okinawa This tropical archipelago offers a stark contrast to mainland Japan, characterised by its stunning beaches and unique Ryukyu culture. Renowned for its laid-back atmosphere, Okinawa is perfect for relaxation, diving, and exploring local cuisine—especially dishes featuring pork and tropical fruits.

Kanazawa Known for its well-preserved Edo-era districts, Kanazawa is a cultural treasure trove. The Kenroku-en Garden is among Japan’s top three gardens, and the 21st Century Museum of Contemporary Art showcases innovative works. The city is also famous for its gold leaf crafts and regional cuisine, particularly seafood.

Naoshima A small island dedicated to contemporary art, Naoshima is home to the Benesse House Museum and installations by renowned artists like Yayoi Kusama and Tadao Ando. This idyllic haven is best for art aficionados seeking a tranquil escape.

Where to stay

Aman Kyoto Nestled within a tranquil garden setting, Aman Kyoto offers a serene retreat with luxurious villas and a focus on wellness, featuring a world-class spa.

Hoshinoya Tokyo Located in the heart of the city, Hoshinoya blends modern luxury with traditional ryokan elements, providing guests with a unique experience, including on-site onsen bathing.

Park Hyatt Tokyo This sophisticated hotel in Shinjuku features minimalist design and offers stunning views of the Tokyo skyline, with a celebrated restaurant and an extensive library.

Hiramatsu Atami With a stunning seaside location, this luxurious retreat showcases kaiseki dining and traditional ryokan hospitality, perfect for those seeking relaxation and culinary excellence.

The Ritz-Carlton, Kyoto This riverside hotel marries traditional Japanese aesthetics with modern luxury, offering simply breathtaking views of the surrounding mountains and the Kamo River.

Hotel Granvia Osaka Conveniently located above Osaka Station, this hotel provides contemporary comfort with easy access to local attractions and excellent dining options.

The Windsor Hotel Toya Resort & Spa Set amidst breathtaking landscapes in Hokkaido, this resort offers luxurious accommodations and a variety of outdoor activities year-round.

The Terrace Club at Busena, Okinawa An exclusive boutique resort offering private villas and a focus on wellness, located on one of Okinawa’s most pristine beaches.

What to eat

Japan's culinary landscape is as diverse as its regions. In Tokyo, sample sushi at Sukiyabashi Jiro, where chef Jiro Ono serves unparalleled omakase experiences. Kyoto is synonymous with kaiseki dining; try Kikunoi Honten for an exquisite multi-course meal that celebrates seasonal ingredients.

Osaka’s street food scene is a highlight, with Dotonbori’s takoyaki stalls and Ikasumi (squid ink) dishes garnering praise. Don’t miss the chance to taste Hokkaido's fresh seafood at Sapporo's Nijo Market, where crab and uni are in abundance.

In Okinawa, traditional dishes like goya champuru (bitter melon stir-fry) and Okinawa soba are must-tries, often enjoyed in casual eateries. Kanazawa is famous for its seafood, particularly at Itaru, which serves seasonal sushi and sashimi.

Culture, etiquette & language

Japanese culture is steeped in respect and politeness. Greetings often involve a bow, and addressing individuals by their last names is customary. Tipping is not a part of Japanese culture; exceptional service is expected without additional gratuities. Dress codes vary by location, but in more formal settings, such as temples and upscale restaurants, smart attire is advised.

When visiting temples or shrines, be mindful of the rules, such as removing shoes when entering certain areas. Learning a few basic phrases can enhance your experience: "Arigatou gozaimasu" (thank you), "Sumimasen" (excuse me), and "Eigo o hanasemasu ka?" (Do you speak English?).

What it costs

Japan offers a wide range of accommodation and dining options. A luxury experience typically ranges from ¥50,000 to ¥150,000 per night at high-end hotels like Aman Kyoto or Park Hyatt Tokyo. Premium stays in mid-range hotels or ryokans generally fall between ¥20,000 to ¥50,000 per night. Budget travellers can find quality options starting around ¥5,000 per night in hostels or capsule hotels.

Dining can vary greatly; expect to pay ¥30,000 for an omakase experience at a top sushi restaurant, while more casual dining can be enjoyed for ¥1,000 to ¥3,000 per meal. Visa requirements vary by nationality, with many visitors able to enter Japan visa-free for short stays.

A sample two-week itinerary

1. Day 1: Arrive in Tokyo, explore Shinjuku and dine at an izakaya. 2. Day 2: Visit Asakusa and the Senso-ji Temple; evening at a top sushi restaurant. 3. Day 3: Day trip to Nikko, explore the UNESCO World Heritage sites. 4. Day 4: Travel to Kyoto; evening stroll through Gion. 5. Day 5: Visit Kinkaku-ji and Ryoan-ji; kaiseki dinner at Kikunoi. 6. Day 6: Arashiyama Bamboo Grove and Iwatayama Monkey Park. 7. Day 7: Head to Osaka; street food tour in Dotonbori. 8. Day 8: Day trip to Nara; return to Osaka for the night. 9. Day 9: Travel to Kanazawa; visit Kenroku-en and the 21st Century Museum. 10. Day 10: Explore the Geisha districts of Kanazawa. 11. Day 11: Fly to Hokkaido; skiing or snowboarding at Niseko. 12. Day 12: Explore Sapporo; enjoy fresh seafood at Nijo Market. 13. Day 13: Fly to Okinawa; relax on the beach or visit a local market. 14. Day 14: Leisure day in Okinawa; explore the local culture before departure.

Responsible travel

Engaging in responsible travel practices is essential in Japan, where conservation of culture and nature is paramount. Respect local customs, particularly in rural areas, and aim to support local artisans and businesses by shopping at local markets and dining at family-run restaurants. When visiting natural sites, such as national parks, adhere to leave-no-trace principles to preserve the beauty of the landscapes for future generations. Consider participating in community-based tourism initiatives that provide insights into local life while benefiting the residents. Travel during off-peak seasons where possible, contributing to sustainable tourism practices and allowing for a more authentic experience without the crowds.