Explore the heart of France, where art de vivre is woven into the very fabric of daily life, from the bustling streets of Paris to the sun-drenched beaches of Côte d'Azur.
France, a country synonymous with sophistication and joie de vivre, offers a rich tapestry of experiences that cater to discerning travellers. Everything from its culinary tradition to its architectural marvels serves as a testament to the French passion for beauty and quality. The idea of art de vivre transcends mere aesthetics; it is a philosophy that permeates daily life, from the café culture of Paris to the wine estates of Bordeaux. This guide will take you on an exploration of the regions that exemplify this ethos, showcasing where to stay, what to eat, and how to immerse yourself in the culture that defines the French way of living.
From the grandeur of the Loire Valley palaces to the sun-soaked shores of the Côte d'Azur, France is an ever-evolving canvas, rich in history and contemporary flair. Each region you visit will provide a unique perspective on this cultural gem, ensuring that your experience is both comprehensive and deeply rewarding.
Why now
France remains at the forefront of global travel, a beacon for those seeking something beyond ordinary tourist experiences. Recent investments in infrastructure, including revamped rail systems and improved access to remote areas, have opened up the country like never before. Moreover, France is embracing sustainable tourism practices, promoting local artisans and producers, making it an ideal moment for the discerning traveller to explore its many treasures. The resurgence of interest in gastronomy, wine tourism, and art, particularly in regions like Provence and Burgundy, makes now a perfect time to delve into the heart of French culture. With such rich offerings, it is clear that France remains an unparalleled destination for those who appreciate the finer things in life.
When to go
The ideal time to visit France largely depends on the regions you plan to explore. Spring (April to June) offers mild weather, blooming landscapes, and fewer tourists, particularly in cities like Paris and the Loire Valley. Summer (July to August) is popular for beachgoers in the Côte d'Azur, but be prepared for crowds and higher prices. The autumn months (September to October) bring a delightful harvest season, especially in Burgundy, making it perfect for wine enthusiasts. Winter (November to March) can be magical, particularly in regions like Normandy, where coastal landscapes take on a moody charm. However, be aware that some attractions may have reduced hours. If you're aiming for a quieter experience without sacrificing weather, consider visiting in early June or late September.
How to get there & get around
France is well-served by several major international airports, with Paris Charles de Gaulle (CDG) being the primary gateway. Other key airports include Nice Côte d'Azur (NCE) for the south and Lyon-Saint Exupéry (LYS) for the east. For getting around, France’s extensive train network, SNCF, operates high-speed TGV services connecting major cities, making train travel an efficient and scenic option. If you plan to explore more rural areas, consider hiring a car, particularly in regions like Provence and Normandy, where public transport options may be limited. Distances are manageable; for example, it’s about a three-hour drive from Paris to the Loire Valley and approximately two hours from Nice to the Italian border.
The regions worth your time
### Paris
For the sophisticated urbanite, Paris is a veritable feast for the senses. Beyond the iconic Eiffel Tower and Louvre, discover the hidden delights of the Marais district, where art galleries and chic boutiques abound. Enjoy a meal at Le Meurice, where Chef Alain Ducasse presents modern French cuisine within a setting of exquisite design.
Provence
The sun-drenched landscapes of Provence evoke feelings of peace and beauty. Here, the lavender fields, olive groves, and vineyards create a picturesque backdrop. Stay at Château de Berne, a luxurious vineyard hotel that blends rustic appeal with modern comfort. Explore local markets for fresh produce and immerse yourself in the regional cuisine at Le Petit Nice, a Michelin-starred restaurant in Marseille.
Loire Valley
A UNESCO World Heritage site, the Loire Valley is home to some of the most magnificent châteaux in France. Ideal for history enthusiasts and wine lovers alike, this region offers charming accommodations like Les Hauts de Loire, where guests can indulge in haute cuisine crafted from local ingredients. Don't miss a tasting at Domaine de la Taille aux Loups, known for its exceptional Chenin Blanc.
Côte d'Azur
Famed for its glamorous lifestyle, the Côte d'Azur is a magnet for the elite. Cities like Nice, Cannes, and Saint-Tropez are vibrant hubs of culture and luxury. The iconic Hotel Negresco in Nice provides an opulent experience, while lunch at La Petite Maison showcases the region's culinary excellence. For adventurous types, a yacht rental offers a unique way to explore the coastline.
Burgundy
Known for its world-class wines and charming villages, Burgundy is a dream for gastronomes. The region boasts remarkable properties such as Château de Gilly, a former abbey turned luxury hotel. For dining, Le Bernardin in Dijon presents a refined approach to local cuisine, while a visit to a nearby vineyard like Domaine de la Vougeraie is essential for wine aficionados.
Normandy
Rich in history and natural beauty, Normandy is perfect for those captivated by landscapes and heritage. The charming town of Honfleur features delightful harbour views and the Hôtel Les Maisons de Léa, a boutique hotel offering comfort and style. Savour the local cider and cheese at La Ferme Saint Simeon, while a day trip to the D-Day beaches adds historical depth to your visit.
Corsica
For those seeking adventure and stunning landscapes, Corsica is a unique blend of mountain and sea. The island’s diverse terrain offers ample opportunities for hiking and exploring secluded beaches. Experience the luxury of Domaine de Murtoli, a captivating eco-resort, and dine at U Palazzu, where Corsican flavours shine in beautifully crafted dishes.
Where to stay
- Le Meurice, Paris: A luxurious hotel situated just steps from the Louvre, offering opulent rooms and a celebrated restaurant led by Alain Ducasse.
- Château de Berne, Provence: An exceptional vineyard hotel that combines rustic charm with modern luxury, featuring a spa and fine dining.
- Les Hauts de Loire, Loire Valley: A beautifully restored château offering an exquisite culinary experience and close proximity to renowned vineyards.
- Hotel Negresco, Nice: A historic hotel with an iconic façade, offering plush accommodations and a Michelin-starred restaurant.
- Château de Gilly, Burgundy: A former abbey surrounded by vineyards, providing elegant rooms and a serene atmosphere.
- Hôtel Les Maisons de Léa, Normandy: A charming boutique hotel with lovely décor and easy access to the picturesque harbour.
- Domaine de Murtoli, Corsica: A stunning eco-resort with private villas, offering a luxurious stay amid nature and local cuisine.
What to eat
French cuisine is an art in itself, with each region boasting its own specialties. In Paris, indulge in classic dishes at Le Relais de l’Entrecôte, famous for its steak-frites. Provence shines with its ratatouille and bouillabaisse, which can be enjoyed at Le Café des Musées in Arles. Burgundy is renowned for its coq au vin, especially at La Maison des Cariatides in Beaune. In Normandy, try the regional delicacy, Camembert cheese, at La Ferme Saint Simeon, paired with local cider. Corsican cuisine, distinct and flavourful, can be best experienced at U Palazzu, where wild boar and brocciu cheese take centre stage.
Culture, etiquette & language
In France, greetings typically begin with a polite "Bonjour" during the day and "Bonsoir" in the evening. Tipping is customary, usually rounding up the bill or leaving a small amount for exceptional service. Dress codes lean towards the smart-casual; shorts may be frowned upon in nicer restaurants. Phrases like "Merci beaucoup" (thank you very much) and "S'il vous plaît" (please) are appreciated by locals. Remember to say "Bonjour" upon entering shops or restaurants as a sign of respect. Avoid loud conversations in public spaces, as discretion is valued in social settings.
What it costs
Expect a range of costs depending on your luxury level. A day of premium travel in France may start at around €500, covering meals at fine restaurants, stays at luxury hotels, and guided excursions. Mid-range options hover around €150-€300 per day, allowing for comfortable accommodations and regional dining experiences. Visa requirements depend on your nationality, with EU citizens enjoying freedom of movement. For others, the Schengen visa allows stays up to 90 days within a 180-day period.
A sample two-week itinerary
1. Day 1: Arrive in Paris. Afternoon visit to the Louvre.
2. Day 2: Explore Montmartre and dine at Le Meurice.
3. Day 3: Train to the Loire Valley. Visit Château de Chambord.
4. Day 4: Wine tasting in the Loire Valley.
5. Day 5: Drive to Burgundy. Explore Beaune and dine at La Maison des Cariatides.
6. Day 6: Visit vineyards and indulge in a gourmet experience at Château de Gilly.
7. Day 7: Head to Normandy. Visit the D-Day beaches.
8. Day 8: Explore Honfleur and enjoy local cuisine at La Ferme Saint Simeon.
9. Day 9: Travel to Provence. Relax at Château de Berne.
10. Day 10: Explore local markets and indulge in traditional dishes.
11. Day 11: Drive to Côte d’Azur. Relax on the beach.
12. Day 12: Explore Nice, visit Musée Matisse, and dine at La Petite Maison.
13. Day 13: Fly to Corsica. Stay at Domaine de Murtoli.
14. Day 14: Hike in Corsica’s stunning landscapes and enjoy local cuisine before departure.
Responsible travel
France has a rich cultural heritage and it is crucial to engage with it respectfully. Support local artisans by purchasing handmade goods rather than mass-produced items. Participate in sustainable tourism practices, such as opting for eco-friendly accommodations and using public transportation when possible. Be mindful of local customs and engage with cultural sites in ways that respect their significance, such as maintaining a quiet demeanor in churches and historic sites. When dining, consider restaurants that source ingredients locally and support community initiatives, thus ensuring that your journey contributes positively to the regions you explore.
Sofia Marchetti — Sofia Marchetti covers Europe — particularly the Mediterranean, the Alps and the Italian peninsula — for TRAVELPASHA. Trained as an art historian; spent a decade running press for an Italian hotel group before crossing the floor to journalism.