Egypt: an in-depth travel guide

Egypt, often referred to as the cradle of civilisation, is a destination that has captivated the hearts and minds of travellers for millennia. From the majestic pyramids of Giza that stand as a testament to ancient engineering to the vibrant markets of Cairo, Egypt presents a unique blend of history and modernity. Yet, despite its popularity, this vast country continues to keep its secrets, inviting discerning travellers to uncover experiences that go beyond the typical tourist trail.

Visiting Egypt today offers an opportunity not only to explore its monumental past but also to immerse oneself in its evolving present, from its burgeoning culinary scene to its dynamic arts culture. Luxurious accommodations, innovative gastronomy, and a variety of adventures create a tapestry of experiences that appeal to sophisticated travellers seeking both relaxation and exploration.

In this guide, we will delve into the myriad of offerings across the country, highlighting the must-visit regions, outstanding places to stay, and delectable dishes to savour, while also providing essential travel tips to navigate this remarkable destination.

Why now

Egypt is undergoing a renaissance, with substantial investments in tourism infrastructure and a renewed focus on heritage preservation. The Grand Egyptian Museum, set to open soon near the Giza Plateau, promises to be a game changer for cultural tourism, showcasing over 100,000 artefacts, including the treasures of Tutankhamun. Furthermore, following years of political instability, tourism is on an upward trajectory, with visitor numbers steadily increasing. This resurgence allows for a fresh perspective on this historic land, making it an ideal time to explore Egypt before it becomes overly commercialised. The country is also enhancing its cultural calendar with events like the Cairo International Film Festival and the Luxor African Film Festival, providing opportunities for a richer engagement with local culture.

When to go

Egypt's climate varies significantly from region to region. Generally, the best time to visit is during the cooler months from October to April. In Cairo, temperatures during this period range from 15°C to 25°C (59°F to 77°F), making it pleasant for city exploration. Luxor and Aswan, however, can be warmer, with daytime highs exceeding 30°C (86°F) in spring. While summer can be blistering, especially in southern regions, the Red Sea coast, such as Sharm El Sheikh, remains a popular escape, thanks to its beach resorts and water sports. Notably, Ramadan, which varies each year, can impact business hours and dining options, so it's wise to plan accordingly.

How to get there & get around

Cairo International Airport (CAI) serves as the primary gateway to Egypt, with numerous international airlines offering connections to major cities worldwide. For domestic travel, EgyptAir operates flights connecting Cairo with Luxor, Aswan, and Alexandria. Alternatively, the train network is a comfortable option for those wishing to travel between cities, particularly between Cairo and Luxor, with sleeper trains providing an overnight experience. Once in the cities, taxis and ride-sharing apps like Uber are widely available, though it is advisable to negotiate fares with local taxis beforehand. For a truly unique experience, consider hiring a felucca—a traditional wooden sailboat—on the Nile River to admire the scenery at a leisurely pace.

The regions worth your time

Cairo For the culturally curious, Cairo is a bustling metropolis that is home to the Egyptian Museum, housing a staggering collection of ancient artefacts. The historic Islamic Cairo district offers a glimpse into the city’s rich past, while contemporary art galleries such as Mathaf and Townhouse Gallery showcase the local creative scene. A visit to the Khan El Khalili bazaar is a must for those seeking local crafts and spices.

Luxor Often called the world’s greatest open-air museum, Luxor is where the ancient past comes alive. The Valley of the Kings, home to the tombs of pharaohs, and the stunning temples of Karnak and Hatshepsut are essential stops for history enthusiasts. Luxor’s burgeoning hospitality sector includes lavish hotels like the historic Winter Palace and the contemporary Sofitel Winter Palace, where guests can enjoy the grandeur of a bygone era.

Aswan Nestled along the Nile, Aswan is known for its picturesque scenery and laid-back atmosphere. The Philae Temple, dedicated to the goddess Isis, is a highlight, as is a day trip to the stunning Abu Simbel temples. Aswan is ideal for those seeking relaxation, with luxury resorts like the Sofitel Legend Old Cataract offering indulgent spa treatments and sweeping views of the river.

Alexandria This Mediterranean gem presents a different face of Egypt, with its charming seaside promenade and rich Hellenistic history. The Bibliotheca Alexandrina is a modern architectural marvel housing millions of books, while the historic Citadel of Qaitbay offers stunning views of the Mediterranean. Culinary enthusiasts will enjoy dining at the iconic Fish Market, known for its fresh seafood.

Sharm El Sheikh Renowned for its spectacular coral reefs and vibrant marine life, Sharm El Sheikh is the ultimate destination for sun-seekers and divers alike. The Red Sea’s clear waters provide exceptional conditions for snorkelling and diving experiences, with luxury resorts like the Four Seasons Resort Sharm El Sheikh offering exceptional amenities and access to pristine beaches.

Siwa Oasis For those in search of an off-the-radar escape, Siwa Oasis offers a tranquil retreat in the Western Desert. Known for its unique freshwater springs and ancient ruins, Siwa is perfect for adventure seekers and wellness enthusiasts. The eco-friendly Adrère Amellal provides a unique experience, combining luxury with sustainability, and is a perfect base for exploring this enchanting region.

Where to stay

1. The St. Regis Cairo - An opulent hotel located along the Nile, offering luxurious accommodations and dining options with views of the river. 2. Sofitel Winter Palace Luxor - A historic property that combines Edwardian architecture with modern luxury, situated near the Valley of the Kings. 3. Sofitel Legend Old Cataract Aswan - This stunning hotel boasts Victorian architecture and beautiful gardens, providing a serene retreat. 4. Four Seasons Resort Sharm El Sheikh - A beachfront paradise featuring elegant accommodations, exceptional dining, and a world-class spa. 5. Adrère Amellal, Siwa Oasis - A sustainable eco-lodge built from local materials, offering a unique opportunity to experience the desert in comfort. 6. Ramses Hilton - Conveniently located in central Cairo, this hotel provides modern amenities and easy access to the city’s key attractions. 7. Hotel de la Paix, Alexandria - A charming boutique hotel featuring stunning views of the Mediterranean and a rich history. 8. The Gabriel - A boutique hotel in Cairo that combines contemporary design with traditional Egyptian influences, perfect for a stylish city stay.

What to eat

Egyptian cuisine is rich in flavours, influenced by the country’s diverse history. Signature dishes include koshari, a hearty mix of lentils, rice, and pasta topped with tomato sauce and fried onions, while molokhia, a green soup made from jute leaves, is a beloved local delicacy. For a truly memorable dining experience, book a table at Naguib Mahfouz Restaurant in Cairo’s Khan El Khalili for traditional Egyptian fare. Sequoia, located along the Nile, offers a more modern twist on Middle Eastern dishes. In Alexandria, Fish Market is famed for its fresh seafood, while Café Riche is a historical spot to enjoy a cup of Egyptian coffee amid a lively atmosphere. In Luxor, The Lantern Room serves delightful international cuisine, perfect after a day of exploration.

Culture, etiquette & language

Egyptian culture is deeply respectful, especially towards traditions and customs. Greetings typically involve a handshake, with men and women often preferring to greet each other verbally. Tipping is customary, with 10-15% expected in restaurants, while small change is appreciated by service staff. Dress codes can vary; modest attire is advisable when visiting religious sites. Learning a few basic Arabic phrases can enhance your experience, such as "Shukran" (thank you) and "Marhaban" (hello).

What it costs

Luxury travellers can expect to spend between $300 to $1,000 per day, depending on accommodation choices and dining preferences. Premium experiences can be found for $150 to $300 per day, while mid-range budgets typically range from $50 to $150 per day. Visa requirements depend on nationality, with many visitors eligible for a visa on arrival valid for 30 days. It is advisable to check the latest regulations before travel.

A sample two-week itinerary

1. Day 1: Arrive in Cairo, check into The St. Regis Cairo, explore the Egyptian Museum. 2. Day 2: Visit Giza Plateau, including the Pyramids and Sphinx, and dine at Naguib Mahfouz Restaurant. 3. Day 3: Explore Islamic Cairo and Khan El Khalili bazaar; overnight train to Luxor. 4. Day 4: Visit the Valley of the Kings and Hatshepsut Temple; overnight at Sofitel Winter Palace Luxor. 5. Day 5: Explore Karnak Temple; sunset felucca ride on the Nile. 6. Day 6: Fly to Aswan; check into Sofitel Legend Old Cataract, visit Philae Temple. 7. Day 7: Day trip to Abu Simbel; relax at the hotel. 8. Day 8: Fly to Sharm El Sheikh; check into Four Seasons Resort; beach day. 9. Day 9: Diving or snorkelling in Ras Mohammed National Park. 10. Day 10: Fly to Alexandria; check into Hotel de la Paix; explore the Citadel. 11. Day 11: Visit the Bibliotheca Alexandrina and enjoy lunch at Fish Market. 12. Day 12: Travel to Siwa Oasis; check into Adrère Amellal; explore local springs. 13. Day 13: Discover the ancient ruins and relax in the oasis; dinner at the hotel. 14. Day 14: Return to Cairo for departure.

Responsible travel

To engage responsibly with the rich heritage and environment of Egypt, consider supporting local artisans by purchasing authentic crafts rather than mass-produced souvenirs. Respect cultural sites by adhering to guidelines and remaining mindful of your impact on the environment. Participating in eco-tours in Siwa or contributing to local conservation efforts along the Red Sea helps promote sustainable travel. Engage with local communities through ethical tourism initiatives that support economic development, ensuring that your visit leaves a positive legacy for future generations.